Zanzibar
Zanzibar has long occupied a higher significance out of proportion to its size. The powers of the Omani Sultans reached far inland to the great lakes. Slavery was nothing new in Africa, but the Arabs took the slave trade to new heights, either trading or employing slaves for their spice trade, handling around 30,000 a year and depopulating huge inland areas.
We tried to pre-arrange accommodation in Zanzibar, but this became too difficult - unreliable phones and a lack of information. We parked Daph for US$2/day at Silver Sands and took a taxi to the ferry port. We were targeting the fast hydrofoil to Stone Town (1.5hrs) but true to form ended up on the 3 hrs boat! 
The slow ferry delayed our arrival on the island. Once immigration had stamped our passports, we decided to take a taxi to our proposed hotel, the Emerson House, quoted in the guide books as being listed as 'One of the top hundred best small hotels in the world' by the Daily Telegraph, yet appeared to be reasonably priced. Naturally the taxi lad knew it and agreed a price to take us there. After 15 minutes of twists and turns around Stone Town (we were grateful that we had not tried to walk!), we arrived outside a closed hotel. Apparently it had been closed for almost a year, which explained why we could not book it the previous night. 
Despite being aware that some guides make their money by taking tourists around the island on a fool’s errand, racking up a bill and then leaving people in dodgy accommodation, we stayed with our taxi driver. We trailed around a few full hotels with waning patience - Stone Town was packed with tourists, although credit to our chap he was trying hard. 
Meanwhile, we came across a wedding party, to which it appeared everyone wasinvited. We jumped out of our taxi for a quick snap and whilst I was taking my photo, a small boy tugged at my arm. Although annoying and spoiling the shot, it was obvious the small boy was concerned for my safety, as I was standing in the road and a car was approaching - how touching! Finally, we had enough and told our taxi driver to take us to Emerson and Green Hotel, a more up-market hotel than our original intended location, where we found a room ( though at an inflated price). The lad was somewhat crest-fallen at not being able to provide us with our original requirement and did not demand any more that the agreed amount - at which we were surprised (although that was how he earned his tip!). Emerson and Green
The hotel had been restored in the manner of one of the richest houses in the Swahili Empire. Each of the 10 rooms was different, but had a similar theme of space, ornate surroundings, huge carved wooden doors and stone baths. Some had verandas, depending on their aspect and most had 4 poster beds with the mozi net stylishly draped around. 
The best feature of the hotel was the restaurant located on the roof, with stunning views across Stone Town and the nearby Palace of Wonders. Had we wanted (or if we could have afforded) another night the hotel was fully booked, so we arranged a bed at the cheaper Baghani Hotel, again a similar old hotel, with a cool central courtyard and rooms off the main stairway. (Why this second hotel was not an option the previous night remains a mystery). 